服饰文化与社会变迁：以明代服饰变化为中心
原祖杰
(四川大学历史文化学院，成都，610064)
提要：服饰作为物质文化的一个重要组成部分，是阅读一个社会的密码。以年鉴学派为主的一批史学家首先将物质文化与社会行为联系起来考察，将日常生活纳入历史范畴，为我们探讨服饰所代表的社会、文化内涵提供了方法上的指导。中国历史上通过服饰规则实现的社会控制，汉族与其它少数民族之间的文化交流和文化认同，性别差异与性别角色，时尚引领的消费革命，以及文化消费与经济繁荣之间的关系，都通过服饰变化这个多棱镜折射出来。
Clothing Culture and Social Transformation:
Focusing on the Clothing Changes in Ming Dynasty China
Yuan Zu-jie
(School of History and Culture at Sichuan university，Chengdu,610064）
Abstract:
As a key component of material culture, clothing forms a code that represents a given society. Historians, mainly those of the AnnalesSchool, were the first to link material culture with social behaviours, incorporating everyday life into historical studies. This gives us a methodological guide to probes into the socio-cultural significances of dress and costumes in China throughout history. Like a prism revealing a wide spectrum of hues, clothing reflects a long list of topics in historical studies, including social control through clothing regulations, cultural exchange and cultural identity, gender differences and gender roles, consume revolution led by fashion, and the relations between cultural consumption and economic prosperity.
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